Paris Couture Week Spring 2023 - Day Three

I can't believe its already day three of Paris Couture week ! As I'm writing this we are at the half way point because there are only 4 days of shows. We've seen some fun collections in the past 2 days so I'm excited to see what day 3 has to offer!  

Yuima Nakazato Spring 2023 Couture 

Starting off with Yuima Nakazato, this collection is not for me lol. I didn't like it at all.  I did look at the show notes and the entire concept stems from a trip to Kenya, and the mountains of Textiles that have been distracted there from the western world.  Using discarted textiles Yuima Nakazato created his collection. And while this an important topic (I could write an entire blog post about it) I think its amazing that these fabrics were recycled into something else (used to create art)... I don't think this collection stands on its own. The concept and message behind it is stronger than the pieces themselves. 

You can see the influence of Kenyas culture in a lot of these pieces such as the necklace/collar seen in the first row of photos I posted. You can also see this in the two looks in the middle below.  But a lot of the collection has a more 1980s punk look, Some of the fabrics almost have a platter paint look (See two photos above on the right). Boots were worn with almost all of the looks. Overall, the collection isn't my taste, it doesn't inspire me. However  I can see people who would like this style and I think the message behind the collection is an important one. If you want to see photos of the entire collection click here and if you want to see the runway show click here. 

Franck Sorbier Spring 2023 Couture 

The collection hasn't been posted online yet, this will remain blank until it has been posted 

Elie Saab Spring 2023 Couture 

Elie Saab NEVER disappoints! This collection is breathtaking!  It's a bit on the longer side wit 69 different looks. Elie Saab said he was trying to "convey a regal feel" and he definitely nailed it! Majesté was a big theme across the collection. There was a lot of beige and gold which intricate patterns and fabrics. 

However there were some looks that have some colours such as the bright green ones above and also looks in rose gold, sky blue and sea foam green.  There were a lot of sequins and beautiful appliqués that almost create a sense of fantasy, like royalty from another world (or dimension)

Most of the gowns are long and the cut reminds me a bit of the 1930s which I love to see, along with the full skirts sprinkled in. There were a couple of looks that had a cape built in. Something we've seen in collections in the past couple of days. Everything of course fits to PERFECTION. I am tired of seeing a bunch of oversized ill fitting clothes on the runway and its comforting to know that Elie Saab always has pristine tailoring. 

And lastly there were some incredible mens looks in the collection as well, and I imagine we'll be seeing these on the red carpet. If King Louis XIV was alive today he would be wearing these looks walking around Versailles.  If you want to see photos of the entire collection click here and if you want to watch the runway show click here. 

Julie De Libran Spring 2023 Couture 

I'm sorry but what is this collection... Julie de Libran opted for a presentation in her apartment instead of a runway show. I'm not very familiar with her work so I am just reviewing this collection for what it is. De Libran is committed to minimizing waste and a responsible consciousness on consumption.  But the collection itself was.... boring. 

There were these sparkly dresses.. which look like something from a fast fashion online store. We have all seen a simple sparkly slip dress like this, some of you probably have one in your closet right now. And while there is nothing wrong with these dresses.... its just nothing new or exciting. 

Then there are these two looks that scream 2010s ... I remember girls having dresses and tops like this on tumblr first.... also the angled down photos add to that theme. Side note: the photos make no sense to each other it all seems very random. 

 

I mean ^ This is what we've come to expect from stores like Forever 21. Yes its wearable but its boring and not what I expect from a couture collection. So for me it was a huge miss. If you want to see more looks from the collection click here 

Viktor & Rolf Spring 2023 Couture 

OMG Viktor & Rolf!  Wow ok there is a lot to unpack here! I'm sure you have all been flooded with photos from this collection since it happened and I can see why !  Viktor & Rolf brought a bit of humour to the runway this couture week and we saw the ballgown from a completely different angle - Literally-. There were 18 looks total, most of which features ballgowns worn in an unconventional way. It almost reminds me of paper dolls before the dress has been attached properly. 

They used 3D printing to build these structures and I think they are fantastic!. Something I find interesting is that since these looks are slightly off or shifted, it gives you a glimpse into the undergarments needed to wear a ballgown. It's not something you really think about, but celebrities wear a lot of undergarments to look the way they do on the red carpet, you truly never know whats underneath. It's almost like things are not how they appear. There is something very Alice in Wonderland about this collection. Not only in the illusions but also in the pastel colour palette. 

Of course there were also some traditional ballgowns in the show. Above being one of my favourites (of the ordinary dresses) in the collection and below are some other examples, but of course the deconstructed dresses were the highlight of the show. They are interesting and camp and makes you look twice. Couture is walking art and this was exactly that. If you want to see photos of the entire collection click here

Zuhair Murad Spring 2023 Couture 

Another incredible collection on day three of couture week. It's going to be really hard to pick a favourite collection today. I mean look at the three looks above ^ ! Inspired by the party scene in the 1920s these looks are exquisite.  The feathers, the sequins, the tailoring it's all perfection. 

The collection started with some 1970s french riviera inspired looks, The show notes state that Murad is gearing this collection at the "new generation of heiresses". I did find some slight similarities to the Georges Hobeika Spring 2023 couture collection we looked at on day one.  The first few looks were a bit tame but that was just the calm before the storm (or in this case beauty in the form of dresses) once the colours started my jaw dropped. 

The runway was flooded by these neon colours in Bright blue, green, pink, yellow and orange. The dresses were slightly sheer with tons of sequins and intricate cutouts. There was fringe, feather and flowing fabrics that made waves as the models walked down the runway. It was incredibly fun and you really did get a sense of the party scene in both the 1970s and 1920s. A really cool party most of us wouldn't be invited to... but thats what makes it all the more alluring. My favourites were of course the 1920s inspired looks (Specifically in first group of photos ^ on the far right). But out of all the brightly coloured looks the pink ones were my favourite. Vouge already stated that they predict we will see one or more of these looks on the Oscars red carpet in a few weeks! If you want to see photos of the full collection click here and if you want to watch the entire runway show click here

Jean Paul Gaultier Spring 2023 Couture 

I feel bad for saying this, and this is what I meant when I said that my taste often different from fashion critics but I really didn't like this collection. Yes the tailoring was perfect but it really didn't do anything for me. 

There were a lot of sharp angles and bright colours, tuxedos on both men and women. I looked at the show notes and other commentary but it really didn't give me any new insight. There were some theatrical elements through the use of feathers on the collar which I really enjoyed but I almost felt like I expected something more grand. 

However there were three looks I actually really liked in this collection, they were very theatrical!  The first two (above) make me think of the antagonist in a fantasy/fairytale world (fabulously dressed with tons of edge) and the white one is the protagonist (Soft and more angelical).  However there were some random looks that I didn't think fit well with the rest of the collection (Below). I feel like I need to go through the archives to understand Haider Ackermanns vision. The overall idea for this collection is a re-imagination of  Jean Paul Gaultier couture work in a single collection. I haven't spent much time looking at his past work in sequence so maybe I need to do that to understand the whole vision. If you want to see photos of the entire collection you can click here. If you want to watch the runway show click here 

Valentino Spring 2023 Couture

These are the only looks from the Valentino collection that I actually liked... they have a babydoll dress feel with the lace tights, something I lov ! I used to have a few lace tights but I haven't bought any in a while... *adds to shopping list*. As for the rest of the collection.... its questionable...so lets get into it: 

I'm glad to see that Valentino has turned away from the overload of pink from the previous collection. It was horrendous and completely overdone, Valentino partnered with too many celebrities and influencers so I think we all got a bit sick of seeing the same thing over and over on the red carpet/events.  The three looks above were one of the only pink looks I saw and even that was too much. Also can I just say.... what is with the glasses with the feathers... it makes it looks like something a frat boy would wear to a themed party. 

There were a lot of polka dots and ruffles which made me instantly think of the 1980s. I actually saw a couple of parallels between this collection and the Armani one from yesterday... except Armani knocked it out of the park, it was flawless..... and this Valentino collection looks like a mess. The white dress with the black bows was similar in concept and design. Valentino also had a lot of ruffle collars on the runway  which we also saw from Armani.

The collection was filled with black and neon, a nod to the 1980s and this is something we've been seeing the past few days in different collections.  There was even a bright pink mohawk... straight up 1980s punk! I can't even begin to talk about every look in the collection because there were 89 looks! It was a massive collection. And honestly it was underwhelming and didn't really deliver. But I guess after the pink fiasco from  last year I don't know what I was expecting. If you want to see all of the photos from the collection click here. And if you want to watch the full runway show click here 

The end of Spring 2023 Couture week DAY 3